The KURA gallery of ISSEY MIYAKE KYOTO presents KURA Exhibition: Resist Dyeing & Brushing Weave Pattern—Kyoto’s Craftsmanship.
2018∙11∙01 | Gallery
ISSEY MIYAKE KYOTO
KURA Exhibition: Resist Dyeing & Brushing Weave Pattern
interviewees: Kazuo Shigeno, Ikuko Kasai / Filmed, edited and directed by Noriaki Okamoto
KURA Exhibition: Resist Dyeing & Brushing Weave Pattern—Kyoto’s Craftsmanship
Shime (“to tighten”; aka Itajime “board-tightened”) is a resist dyeing technique that creates patterns by compressing the fabric to make it resistant to dye. Kasuri (“brushing weave pattern”) is a technique that creates patterns by arranging dyed warp (longitudinal threads) before weaving. These two traditional techniques have lent themselves to many rich expressions in fabric and clothing design original to Japan. ISSEY MIYAKE’s creative work is inspired by these techniques as it continues to work with and learn from the craftspeople. This exhibition introduces the two craftspeople in Kyoto who have inherited and carried on the craftsmanship of shime and kasuri.
One is Kazuo Shigeno, the craftsman of dyeing. Shigeno is a METI* certified traditional craftsman of Kyo-Kanoko Shibori (“Kyoto’s Fawn Tie-Dye*”) well versed in a variety of resist dyeing techniques including shibaru (“to bind”) and kukuru (“to pinch and tie-up”). He is also one of the few remaining craftspeople who practices itajime (“board-tightened”) dyeing, the technique presented at this exhibition.
The other is Ikuko Kasai, the craftswoman of kasuri (“brushing weave pattern”). Kasai is well versed in the type of kasuri exclusive to the Nishijin area of Kyoto (aka Nishijin-gasuri). She creates extraordinary patterns by shifting warp ends, where she elaborately counts and arranges numerous threads, sometimes over 10,000, at her fingertips.
As this exhibition explores the exceptional skills of these two craftspeople and the fascinating patterns they created, it provides a lens to look at traditional craftsmanship anew.
- Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry
- named after the dyed patterns with white spots resembling a young deer’s fur