On Sunday, March 1st, ISSEY MIYAKE presented its AUTUMN WINTER 2020-21 collection, titled “Making Speaking, Speaking Making” at the Lycée Carnot school in Paris. Directed by Daniel Ezralow, the show is an expression of the words and feelings derived naturally from the process of making things by hand.
2020∙03∙02 | ISSEY MIYAKE
AUTUMN WINTER 2020-21
Utilizing the A-POC* system, this series is inspired by the idea of drawing pieces of clothes on fabric with distinct, bold lines and cutting them out. When the clothes are laid flat, the hand-drawn outlines convey a sense of playfulness, yet when worn on the body, they create a clear, strong silhouette.
*A-POC (A Piece Of Cloth): A system that uses computer programming to manipulate motions of the threads one by one and produces clothes in a single process.
The patterns of this series were created with the technique of “Decalcomania”* inspired by Japanese onomatopoeic words “goshi gosh”** and “juwah”***. The silk fabric is treated to give it a slight sheen that allows the subtlety in the colors to show. The design combines a blouse and a jacket into a unique continuous piece, which gives the impression that one is wearing two separate garments.
* Decalcomania (from French: décalcomanie) is a decorative technique by which engravings and prints may be transferred to sheet of paper to paper by the pressure, and it creates unintended accidental patterns and forms.
** The sound and movement of smudging something.
*** The sound and movement of something seeping into or spreading into another.
Like kneading many colorful clays together, this knit series is composed of a variety of textures. Its three-dimensional form is made possible by the varying knitting patterns of each color block, all knit together in one single run.
The print of this series is inspired by the touch of hands kneading mud and forming it into shapes. The fabric is a blend of wool and paper that gives the garment a primitive look.
This dress draws inspiration from the elegant, glimmering light of the mysterious aurora. The print on the thin, translucent fabric represents the gently falling snow and the plants covered by it quietly waiting to sprout.
HAND IN HAND
Made with a seamless knitting technique, this series conveys the idea of connecting people to people, people to world, and people to the future, in a playful, continuous knit. The pieces in this series have additional openings designed with the intent to be worn in many different ways.
Please click the link below to view all looks of this collection.